The catamaran from Kos arrives at the town of Livadia in Tilos early afternoon. It is hot and there is practically no one around. Siesta time. All you can do is to get into the shade and take it easy.
And then we began to look around. When you are facing the town, you will see a couple of shops on your left, one grocery and one combined tourist information/car rental. They were closed, of course, but important. Next to them you will find a pathway leading up to the town square where the bus would be leaving from a couple of hours later.
Here we also found another little grocery shop and under the shady trees an outdoor Kafenion with mostly male guests. We were not in the mood for Greek coffee just then. By the way, if you are used to drinking cappuccinos and lattes, you may not be able to digest a Greek coffee which is so thick that you almost have to eat it. It is, however, great after an evening meal.
Instead we bought quite a few bottles of water, water melon, yogurt, honey and bread. This seemed to be the staple diet of our non-restaurant meals.
We had heard that there was a well at Plaka Beach where we could get fresh water, but maybe it was a false rumour and better be safe than sorry. We had not forgotten that we ran out of water on our hike from Psili Amos to Hora when we were on Patmos. That experience had taught us a lesson.
We hadn’t quite decided whether to camp at Eristo Beach or Plaka Beach. It was really like choosing between apples and pears, two very different places. Eristo Beach was more conveniently located, near shops and bus stop. However, when the bus stopped at Eristo Beach we just took one look at the crowds and decided to stay on the bus. We were definitely spoiled from time spent on Psili Ammos and the tranquillity that we had experienced there at our dream beach. Eristo Beach was crowded night and day, and there were three tents to a tree. No thank you. Maybe if we had been 18 years old and interested in partying all night, but we were not.
So we made our destination Plaka Beach, and Agios Andonios was the place to get off the bus. Right next to the bus stop was a small taverna with very friendly owners. Also, they spoke quite good English. I believe that three generations lived there, grandparents, son with Russian wife and their lovely children. We sort of ended up making this taverna our base.
But, we still had to make our way to Plaka Beach, and the only way to get there was to walk. So, once again it was a hike with our backpacks that seemed to get heavier with every step we took. But the boys never complained and made me proud.
The hike out to Plaka Beach was supposed to take some 20 minutes. Instead it took us about 1½ hour. There is no doubt about which road to choose as there is only the one road at this end of the island. So we kept walking and walking and walking. When eventually we reached our destination we were a little confused about the setup of the place.
The first thing we noticed was a fence with a big gate leading into what looks like a park of some sort. Outside the fence the local authorities have placed some garbage containers – a positive element as there is a bigger chance of people leaving their garbage there instead of leaving it in places where you don’t want to find it. In our view the beach was rather disappointing – all stones and no sand. Rather narrow and not very friendly at all. The water is clean enough, of course, but there seems to be a kind of sediment on the stony bottom which makes it seem a little dirty – even if it isn’t.
However, when we entered a small gate from the beach into the park, we began to think that maybe we hadn’t come all this way in vain. It looked like an interesting place to spend a few days. It wasn’t at all like Psili Amos on Patmos, instead it was the very different Plaka Beach on Tilos.