Archive

Tag Archives: Psili Amos

Snorkelling, reading, eating, and relaxing in the shade – these were the daily activities on Psili Ammos beach, and most of them took place without wearing any clothes. I say this to illustrate why the next event could happen.

One afternoon when we were about to dress to go to the taverna my husband grabbed a polo shirt that had been left for a few days in the beach tent where we stored most of our stuff. The moment he pulled the shirt over his head he felt something that stung him. He looked inside his polo shirt and saw a – scorpion!

 

Scorpions on Psili Ammos, Patmos, who would have thought so

Scorpions on Psili Ammos, Patmos, who would have thought so – my husband got stung on the side of his neck and lived to tell about it

He yelled out loud and fortunately ‘J’, our Dutch neighbour who lived a few meters away from us in a hammock, was around and came running. He was a very special guy, very friendly and very spiritual. He does a lot of things with the sandstone rocks that you will find all over the place and has made this perfect and very large spiral in the area behind where we camped. He lives on Psili Ammos all summer and in Scala all winter with his Greek girlfriend.

 

Psili Ammos, Patmos - a perfect spiral - made by our Dutch neighbour

Psili Ammos, Patmos – a perfect spiral – made by our Dutch neighbour

He knew of scorpions in Greece, but had never actually seen them and didn’t know how poisonous they were. First, he helped my husband sort of catch the scorpion in a small pocked in the shirt and then helped him get the shirt off. Next, he suggested that I should try to suck at the place where my husband had been bitten. However, I doubt that would do any good.  And then, the three of us went very quickly to the taverna to get help.

On our way to the taverna I was already beginning to think about how to leave the beach with the boys and get home in case my husband died. A lot of thoughts went through my mind in the couple of minutes it took to get to the taverna. From my travelling in Australia I knew that the small brown scorpions (this one measured about 2-3 cm) were the most poisonous ones, much worse than the big black ones that I had come across in Indonesia many years ago.  ‘J’ told the family what had happened, and they asked to see the scorpion. And then they laughed…

What a relief. It turned out that this type of scorpion was not dangerous at all, and the bite no worse than getting stung by a bee – which can be bad enough, but not compared to what we thought it would have been. The grandfather just stepped on it and it was no longer in this world.  I kept a close eye on my husband for the next 24 hours and we learned to shake all pieces of clothing, etc. before putting them on.

We spent lots of time snorkelling a bit out in the water, but not quite out there where the cliffs end as the sea and waves would be far too rough. I am not the courageous type and like calm water when I snorkel. But the thing is that when you get out there and dive under the surface, the water is completely calm, and the light is fantastic. It feels like diving in a huge aquarium surrounded by beautifully coloured fish and plants.

 

Psili Ammos, Patmos - snorkelling in a big aquarium - or almost so

Psili Ammos, Patmos – snorkelling in a big aquarium – or almost so

We also saw this huge mussel shell, which I later learned was a ham-mussel. Apparently, the mussel had somehow left the shell or probably something had made it leave if by eating it. The shell was enormous compared to the shells that we see in Denmark. It was barely hanging on to a big rock and came off when I touched it. Since the mussel wasn’t there anymore I took it with me when we swam back in to the beach.

It was about 20 cm long and orange inside with white mother of pearl, really beautiful. As usual my husband said that there was no way that it would make it back to Denmark, but he forgot about the water bottles which serve many purposes. So, I wrapped the shell in paper towel and cut open a couple of water bottles and stuck the whole package together with gaffer tape. It made it back to Denmark without breaking and I have added it to my shell collection.

At night it is totally black at Psili Ammos where you only have the moon and the stars to shine on your camp. As wonderful as that is, it wasn’t quite sufficient when the four of us wanted to play Uno at night, so we made lamps out of our water bottles.

We had brought some tea light candles along as we knew we would need some kind of light at night, but we hadn’t counted on it being so windy all the time that it was impossible to keep the candles going. So, we took an empty plastic water bottle, took off the cap, filled the bottom with sand, cut a small window in the side of the bottle where we could insert the candle into the bottle on top of the sand – and voila – we had sand lamps.

 

Leaving-Psili-Amos, Paytmos, very early in the morning to catch the catamaran to Leros

Leaving Psili Amos, Patmos, very early in the morning to catch the catamaran to Leros

Eventually, it was time to move on and leave Psili Ammos and Patmos to go to one of the nearby Greek islands that we had passed on the way to Patmos – and where we had friends waiting for us – Leros.

 

Advertisements

 

It didn’t take us long to wish for a cooling swim at Psili Ammos beach, but instead we had a long hike ahead of us at the hottest time of the day. We were sure that it couldn’t be that bad to walk with our backpacks to the road to Hora where we thought a bus would pass by. No such thing happened and we ended up walking for more than two hours with our backpacks all the way to Hora where we arrived at about 4 pm at the monastery. On the way there we ran out of drinking water and we were actually getting a little worried about the boys and whether they could handle the rigours we made them go through. We passed a woman who was watering her plants and asked her to soak our hats in water to cool our heads for a little while. She was very friendly and it helped for the next few minutes.

Leaving the wonderful beach of Psili Amos, Patmos, hiking over the cliffs on our way to Hora

What we could have done – and should have done, would be to call a taxi when we came down from the cliffs from Psili Amos. There is a small restaurant there where I’m sure we could have used the phone. The money for a cap would have been well spent!

We knew we were getting close to our destination when we saw the first souvenir shops and a group of tourists with a guide in front of them with a raised flag. I remember one of the very few times in my life when I have joined such a group – in Varanasi in India. The guide kept shouting that we should follow the stick! The thought of that always makes me smile and I tend to notice what kind of object the various guides use to keep their flock together.

The monastery is quite small, but very richly decorated. There is a nice little courtyard where you can relax in the shade, and the priest asked us if we would like to leave our backpacks with him while we took a look around. Another very friendly Greek!

Afterwards, we walked to the bus station where we caught the bus going back to Scala. The bus driver was the same young guy who had left us a few days before at Grikos. He asked us what we thought of Psili Ammos. I think that he had been there himself and didn’t appear surprised to hear how sorry we had been to leave the best beach we had seen for a very long time.

Patmos, Psili Amos, is the closest I have been to paradise for many years. Read this piece before you go to know what to expect and what to bring.

As it is a long way to the nearest shop of any kind, make sure to include the following items in your backpack before you start your climb down to Psili Ammos beach:

  •  Cash – it is a long way to the bank from Psili Ammos
  •  Flashlight and extra batteries – it gets very very dark at night
  • Wide brimmed hat – a must in Greece
  • Sun tan lotion
  • Diving mask and snorkel
  • One or two brick novels
  • Canned food
  • Toilet paper

At the taverna you can buy bread and water, may be other things if they have something to spare, but usually that’s it. The taverna opens around 8 or 9 in the morning and you can have great breakfasts there that’ll last you till way into the afternoon. It closes again about 5 pm so make sure that you have had a solid meal there before that time. They make great zucchini balls, Greek salads, goat stews etc. at very reasonable prices. The owners are very friendly and will let you buy water and bread if they have any at the end of the day – which they fortunately always did. They only accept cash! On Psili Amos, Patmos, beautiful sunsets were followed by incredible beautiful starry nights with fine shooting stars

The major business of the tavern is when the boat from Scala comes in about 11 am which it does if the wind is not too strong. We experienced a couple of days that it didn’t arrive. They were very quiet days on Psili Amos with few people and big waves. But when the day tourists come to Psili Ammos they rarely venture more than 50 meters away from the taverna. The rest of Psili Amos beach was left to people like us who camped there and the campers also kept to themselves as at our end of the beach we would spend all day without clothes on. Only when we went to the taverna or to use the facilities did we put on a sarong in order not to offend anyone. The facilities (toilets) were fine, by the way.

Psili Ammos is a beach with wonderful fine sand and lots of fairly large pieces of rock which you can use to build small walls around your tent to protect you from the wind on days when it is windy or else to partly protect your things from the sun. There are very few trees on Psili Amos and they all have tents under them that profit from the shade they offer. We brought two small tents with us and a beach tent, one of those in bright colours that is open at the one side. That beach tent was a big success as we used it to store all our stuff. Our tents were only meant for sleeping with no room for our backpacks.

Watching the goats pass from one side to the other before the sun rises above the cliffs

As I mentioned on the ‘must bring’ list, a diving mask and snorkel are so necessary, not just on Psili Amos, but for all the places that we went. At Psili Ammos the snorkling was spectacular, not just for the fish, but in some places out there we felt as if we were swimming in a huge aquarium with the sun streaming down through the water.

There is a huge area behind the area where the tents are that leads up to the cliffs that surround Psili Amos. If you are up early in the morning, you can watch the goats cross from one side to the other. They spend all day eating the herbs such as thyme and sage that grow all over the place. You can almost imagine how great the meat from these goats tastes.Psili Amos, Patmos, is the place to go if you want to do nothing but hang out, dive and swim. Nothing much is really going on - and that is the beauty of it

Psili Amos is one of those places where you could stay on for a long time, but we had planned island hopping in Greece and that means going from island to island and not staying on Patmos all the time even though we were tempted to do so. Before leaving Scala the day that we arrived we bought our ferry tickets to our next stop, Tilos, which unfortunately made us less flexible in staying on than we could have wished for.

On the day that we had to leave the boat from Scala arrived as usual and we had hoped to be able to return to Scala that way, but the captain wouldn’t sell us tickets as he said that the boat was too crowded as it was. This was what we had feared as it meant a very long and very hot hike back to civilisation.

At midday it is hot on Patmos and a shady bench in a nice place for a napDon’t worry about not finding accommodation when you get to Patmos. When you get off the ferry at Scala, the major town on Patmos, you are met by local owners of houses or rooms to let, camp site managers etc. They will all have a very good offer for you, but they are not too persistent if you say no thank you. Actually, they are quite helpful with information, should you require that. If you are interested in e.g. renting a house for a few days, you can probably make a good deal as the price they will mention at first will be negotiable if you stay for say 3 nights or more. However, as soon as we mentioned that we were going to Psili Ammos beach, they lost interest in us. Well, as it was 2 p.m. they said that we would need accommodation for the night as the boat for Psili Ammos did not leave till the next morning. We decided to get organized, and in order to get organized we needed to get into the shade as it was rather hot in the middle of the day, a heat that sometimes could make it difficult to think of anything else than a cold drink or one of the great ice creams of Greece. Even the locals themselves are seen to enjoy a nap in the shade.

Next to the local police station we located the Patmos tourist information with a very helpful and skilled woman inside. She was equally fluent in Italian and English and I guess Greek. However, as I only know very few words in Greek, that’ll be a guess on my part. When I mentioned Psili Ammos, she said that it was a very nice beach, but if we went there, we probably would not see anything else on Patmos. Another 10-15 minutes and we had made it to our destination Psili Amos on Patmos

We found out that a bus would leave at 4 p.m. for Grikos via Hora, the white town in the middle of Patmos. The bus ride didn’t take long – may be 20 minutes. When we got off the bus, it was still very hot, but fortunately it cooled down a bit before we started on the last bit up and down the cliffs to get down to Psili Amos beach. From Grikos we walked for about 2 hours till we reached our destination which was everything that we had hoped for. But – if money is no obstacle you can hire a taxi in Scala to take you to the cliffs and you will only have to hike the last bit up and down the cliffs. If I was to go again, I might just do that, but we saw a lot of the countryside walking and that was part of the experience.